Canadian Mill Gondolas – Part 4 CP 340684

Here are some shots of CP 340684 and CP 340645, the CP mill gondolas I built from a P2K 52’6″ gondola kit.  I used Black Cat decals, then used heat to deform the sides and ends.  Artist’s oils, chalks, and an airbrush were used to apply the weathering.

IMG_1981 IMG_1980 IMG_1979 IMG_1978 IMG_1977 IMG_1976 IMG_1975 IMG_1974 IMG_1973 IMG_1972 IMG_1971 IMG_1970 IMG_1969 IMG_1968 IMG_1967 IMG_1966 IMG_1965 IMG_1964 IMG_1963 IMG_1962 IMG_1961 IMG_1960 IMG_1959 IMG_1958 IMG_1957 IMG_1956 IMG_1955 IMG_1954 IMG_1953 IMG_1952 IMG_1951 IMG_1950 IMG_1949 IMG_1948 IMG_1947 IMG_1946 IMG_1945 IMG_1944 IMG_1943 IMG_1942 IMG_1941 IMG_1940 IMG_1939 IMG_1938IMG_2004 IMG_2005 IMG_2006 IMG_2007 IMG_2008 IMG_2009

8 thoughts on “Canadian Mill Gondolas – Part 4 CP 340684

  1. Hunter,
    Very nice- those cars really turned out well. The weathering is very effective, and the subtle streaks on the sides look great!

    Tom Patterson

  2. I think the cars look very good as well. The bulging of the side panels should be standard equipment on 1950s build gons on our club layout.

    There are a couple things I’ve noted, though. One is that the sides bend inward slightly in places, and that’s never the case on the prototype; they always bend outward if anything. The other is that in photos, it seems the top chord is usually in pretty good shape, and not bent or wavy. I understand that it can be hard to localize the heat enough to keep the top chord from bending with the side panel a little. One thought which may be worth trying is to do all the work on the sides and then cut off the original top chord and replace it with some new Plastruct sections. Either that or clamping the top chord between two pieces of steel as a heat sink so that it doesn’t bend with the rest while heating the panels. You could even prebend the steel to get the outward bow before starting on the panels. I’m not sure if these ideas would work, or if they are even worth the effort, but I thought I’d throw them out there.


    • Not sure where I saw this anymore, but I’ve seen someone post about clamping the side of the car to a block of wood somehow, which braces the ribs/chords, so the panels deform but the ribs stay straight.

      • It’s pretty tough to push the dents into the sides without moving the top chord around. I think with more practice I’ll get better at it.

        Jurgen, I think when I do the next one, I’ll do the dents first, then use a more diffuse heat source to generally heat up the whole car and bow the sides out. The top chord does get bends and waves, though my cars exaggerate the bends a bit much.

      • The best technique for being able to heat the whole car without letting it get too hot is to put it in hot water. You can control the temperature fairly well, especially if you put a cooking thermometer in the water. If you create a form to force inside the car bowing it outwards and then heat it in the water, you should be able to make it take on the new shape.


  3. How all gons (and most flats) should look! Excellent work!! Now, to figure out how to dent the daylights out of all those boxcars too!

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