SW1200RS Project Continues – MU Hoses

It’s been just over four weeks since I moved into my new house, and at long last, I’ve managed to get my work space functional.  The tools are unpacked, and I got a bit of work accomplished.



After some drilling, glueing, and painting, both units now have MU hoses on both ends.



I used the metal variety of hoses, instead of the vinyl ones.  I like the way the metal hoses bend.  The only problem is that they don’t fit into the slots on the pilot.



If you look closely, you can see that the coupler pockets are different on each model.  The pockets provided by the kit didn’t fit into the openings in the pilots, and even if they’re modified to fit, they would result in coupler height that is about a half a coupler too high.  I ended up using the coupler pockets from the P2K model from which the drive was taken. They had to be pretty extensively modified as well, but they worked.  Apparently, LifeLike changed the mould for the coupler pockets part way through their production because the two models had slightly different pockets.  Something as insignificant as this can really slow down progress, to the extent that extra hours are eaten up trying to come up with a solution.  It all worked out in the end.

I still have to install the air hoses.  I’ll get to that next time.


6 thoughts on “SW1200RS Project Continues – MU Hoses

    • Thanks. I worked from photos and tried to replicate the random mix of jumble and order. I still need to paint the glad-hands with a dull metal colour. I’ll probably do that once the air lines are in.

  1. Be sure to print out a copy of the photo of your workbench and pin it to the shelf above the space. That way, in the future, you can remember what it looked like before it was buried under tools, materials and modelling projects!

    • Funny, I was reflecting on how any workbench I’ve ever owned has a magical gravity that draws in tools and parts. I had to clear some things away for the photo because it looked like someone had spilled a box of bits and junk onto the work surface and the two shelves. Uncanny.

    • Looking back over this post, it seems I glossed over some of the details of the mu hose installation. I’ll give you more insight to the process I used.

      I tend to do things the hard way so, why should this detail be an exception. Despite the fact that the Details West part is primitive, I chose to go with them because I like the way they look on the finished model. Making that decision meant that I had to bring the primitive part up to par with the rest of the model. First, I cleaned up the flash and parting lines all around the casting. This meant getting into the spaces between the hoses. I did this with a sharp scalpel, medium grit sanding stick, and some fine grit sandpaper. Once the part was cleaned up, I reshaped the entire top part of the casting using a variety of files and standing sticks. Essentially, I removed the entire bracket/receptacle part of the casting and reshaped the tops of the hoses, keeping the little nub on the back of the casting. After some test-fitting, I located and marked the appropriate spot for the hole in the pilot, and drilled that with a #70 bit. I scraped away some paint on the pilot to help adhere the CA that I used to hold the works together. The hoses had to be bent into shape during test-fitting, because it’s much easier to manipulate the part before it goes on the model. Once it was glued on, I did some minor adjustments to the shape of the hoses using some dental scrapers for leverage. I repeated that four times for each model, then hand painted the hoses with Polly Scale paint.

      I’d be interested to hear about anyone’s experience installing any kind of mu hose detail part.

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