8 thoughts on “N5B Lettering

  1. That’s part of the fun, trying to find just the right bits and pieces to make the model correct. It helps if you have a good arsenal of decals to pick from. I haven’t done any decaling for a while, but remember absolutely hating doing the end reporting marks when all of the numbers had to be placed one at a time. It’s nice when it all comes together, though.

    • I really love to paint and decal models. I don’t mind doing end reporting marks, and I like the challenge of working with such small letters and numerals, but I have to be in the right frame of mind. I still have to finish off the end numerals on a couple of other models that I’m working on.

      I do have an arsenal of Penn Central decals, these cabeese consume the numeral 2 faster than the others. As such, I’ve run out and had to order more Microscale PC caboose decals.

      • Interestingly, I also use the divider for detailing. I’ll use it to scribe very light light lines along edges and also to punch small holes with the points in order mark a place to start the drill bit. An example of this is when I had to locate the holes in the cupola roof to accommodate the corner grabs. I’m sure there are other ways to do this kind of work, but I’m very comfortable with drafting tools, so my various dividers are go-to tools.

    • I use the divider as a faster way to select which font is the correct size. I’ll eyeball a rivet line or seam in the car panel from a photo, make a proportional estimation, then size up the same details on the model. I move the divider to the decal sheet to pick out the correct font. I don’t like to spend time posing things for photos because I’d rather be building things 🙂

    • Jason, the Microscale set is specifically for the N11 transfer caboose. The letter font size and numeral size works for some Penn Central cabooses, but not all. The PCRRHS set provides different fonts and numeral sizes.

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